It was nearing the end of another long day of volunteering. A group of the volunteers seemed to be preparing some food and drinks. I kept trying to get my work done and fussed with some details that were not working as planned. My mood was more than welcoming of a break if that is what the commotion was about. Then I heard a “MaarrKOH”. In the tone of enough work, get on over here. I kept my head down and said I just need to finish three more. Oh did I want to be done with this frustrating little exercise.
During the chatting and laughing going on, somehow some of the focus turned to me. And the discussion seemed to bounce around between wanting to go see the Carpathians and my fathers home town as well. People had been asking why I haven’t done that yet. So I listed off some of the odd occurrences and circumstances that prevented me. Admittedly there were also times I just didn’t go because of the difficulty of booking hotels. The hotels always describing ‘call for availability’. I mentioned how can I call when I won’t be able to speak properly or understand what is being said in return.
The conversation also drifts back to the Carpathians. I give a description of some of the areas I wanted to go see or some of the places I was familiar with from searches on the internet (places that have caught my attention). I did say there are so many other places I don’t know of, but I know I need to make a point of going to visit and see various places in the region. Admittedly I could use a break and a rest.
As the conversation flows, along with some of the wine, so do some smiles flow my way. Someone asked if this Saturday was okay for me (this is taking place on a Thursday night). I sort of looked around as if sure, I’ll come in and bake whatever you request or whatever you let me do. Thinking it was going to be another regular Saturday bake day. I didn’t realize they essentially said amongst themselves - ROAD TRIP! They decided that if it was a little difficult for me to get accommodations, why not just go with one of the tour groups that arrange day trips. Several of them were keen on going to see the city as well. So they thought it would be a good idea to make a group outing and help me out. How friggin’ awesome is that!!
We did a bunch more eating, drinking, and laughing - well, the ladies are all laughing as most of the conversation is in Ukrainian. We do some more talking about places in the Carpathians and I get heads up that due to the war one of the areas I wanted to go see requires some sort of permit to enter and that needs to be made over two weeks in advance. That is okay, I will hopefully try and see a few other spots before the winter sets in. They all agree it is a nice area. Maybe I will do some day or weekend trips. I have my drivers license now (what a fiasco that was), so I have an option outside of buses and trains. A car would allow me to do lots of things that I just couldn’t do by transit. But this surprise road trip will be a welcome getaway from the city. Might be just the thing I need to get motivated to see more places. I must admit the lack of language is a primary reason for not going to more places. Sometimes I just get so wrapped up in the volunteering. I have earned the right to some time off though. Then I say to myself there are others out there that don’t have the luxury of taking time off. So I ‘soldier on’ as they say, and try and make my contribution.
One of the ladies who was explaining some of the details of the cost and the way to pay, also mentioned that because we were going on this little day trip that meant no baking. She likely knew it would be a good break for me as she has witnessed some of the marathon bake sessions I have gone through. Since I wasn’t going to be baking this Saturday, I was definitely going to work on another recipe for the energy bars I make for the soldiers on the Friday. I had actually mentioned earlier in the day that I was likely going to try and take some time to do that on Friday. Then came a request to make another batch of Chocolate Thunder. Seems that was a bit of a hit. I may have to do a fun version of that one. Stay tuned. I may be writing up more of those food stories in another place. Kind of toying with some ideas; not sure I want to add too many more food related posts with this blog (even though they are mostly humourous stories). A link will be provided if so.
I know what readers are saying. Good for you Marko, you deserve a break. All the volunteering, all the writing and posting for this . . . well, this. A day off on a guided bus tour will be a good way to have no crazy stuff happen or any nonsense. A nice relaxing day driving through the countryside.
The day started out around seven in the morning. It started at 3:30 for me. That is when I woke up and just didn’t fall back asleep. No, not from being excited. From being me. Everyone that was coming along made it there in time. After we set off to begin the day tour I realized it was a talking tour. The guide was describing areas of significant history or geology. One of the people I was on the tour with took some time to fill me in on what some of the topics were when we had breaks off the bus. I was okay with just taking in what the landscape looked like and seeing a little more of the country and countryside. We would be travelling to the Ternopil Oblast (Oblast means region or province). The city that my father was born in is in that Oblast. Zalishchyky lies on the Dniester river, and was once was a well known tourist destination, and for the foods being produced in the region. However, after the Soviet occupation a lot of that was destroyed. This occupation also led to my father and grandfather fleeing Ukraine and coming to Canada. Sadly the family was separated, so not everyone escaped.
The countryside often featured agricultural fields. An abundance of corn and sunflower fields. At the time we were passing by several fields had already been processed so I could not tell what they were growing there. Many homes had gardens. Lots of corn, pumpkin, and squashes could be seen. As well as a host of animals. Fruit trees were everywhere I looked. Apples seemed to be the main fruit tree. Walnuts and chestnut trees were abundant in some places as well. I also saw hops. The home-brewer in me loved seeing that.
Before arriving in Zalishchyky we stopped off at the historical site for the Chervonohorod Castle. The area also features the well known Dzhuryn waterfall nearby. At the site for the Castle are also the ruins of a convent, a Catholic church, and some farm structures.
Being part of a tour group (yes, I said it - go ahead and have your laugh), it was a little tricky to take certain photos. And time was a premium. I was also playing around with my film camera, so that made some situations a little . . . hmm, frustrating (get out of the way!!).
After the visit to the historical site we made our way to Zalishchyky. The city lies at a point near where three Oblasts come together (Ternopil, Ivano-Frankivsk, and Chernivsti). The climate is mild and sometimes described as mediterranean. The surrounding cliffs create an interesting microclimate. When you see images of the city you may be reminded of Horseshoe Bend in The Grand Canyon National Park. Our first stop was for our lunch. By this point it was later in the afternoon, so sitting down for a meal was a welcome decision. We started with a bowl of borscht, how very Ukrainian.
Now that we were fed it was time to head to the place that allows you to see the famous view of the city. We did not have any time to walk around. Although there really is not much of the city to see. I still am determined to go back, in order to spend some time researching the city records to see what additional information I can discover about my family history. I hope those records were not destroyed during the war or the subsequent occupations. Time to get back on the bus to cross the river, head up the hill, and experience the view of the city from above.
It has been a long time in wanting to see the city where my father was born. He passed away when I was very young. Almost too young to really know him. So I would always tell people that it made the loss a little different. In some respects I did not know very much to miss. However, the oddest thing I would experience growing up was how frequent the comments would be of how similar certain things I would do or some mannerisms would be just like him. At times people could see the resemblance to him. I have some memories, but sadly many are gone. I do remember the late night excursions going to get ice cream. For those who know me - Marko and the ice cream. Must be something about my connection with him.
The experience of going to see his birth city was nice on several levels. The obvious one is having the experience to physically be there and getting a further sense of some of my history. The one unexpected one was the people from the volunteer place saying, hey, why don’t we go with you and make a day of it. Well, they thought they were making a day of it. Yup, you may have been wondering where the typical Marko stuff is. There has been no WTF! No Dammit! No Fukit! Marko, you did have a good day. Um, did I tell you about getting back on the bus to go home? Oh no. Marko. Is this where the usual things that happen to you happens? Kind of.
The tour is essentially over and now it is time to head back to Lviv. I have come to see a very important part of my heritage. The day was long but nice. I got to learn some things. See a lot of things. Take pictures and shoot some film with the Hassy. The bus ride home should give me a chance to relax and reflect. I have a few snacks to get me through. I still have some of that energy bar I made the day before. I am looking forward to having more of that. The ride home should be shorter as I don’t think it is as guided on the way back. We had the grand finale. And then the bus begins to sputter. But it recovers.
And then it didn’t recover. It seemed to sputter some more and then just fade out. I wish I had more of my energy bar. I shouldn’t have eaten the last bit of my sandwich. I literally finished it two minutes before the bus crapped out. I was wondering how long this would be. But there may be stores close by in an emergency. After a while of trying to figure out the problem with the bus, we decide to go to visit a historical building within walking distance. Good filler for the guide. After a lot of listening and standing around we start walking again. I assume the problem with bus is a little more complicated than was expected.
Eventually we walk over to a horse stable. We get to go into the stables and see the horses. Most were quite friendly and allowed some stroking of their nose. Some encouraged it. This was a nice diversion considering the situation of the bus breaking down. After a long visit to the stables, we begin to make our way back to the bus. Very slowly. I don’t assume the problem is solved yet. Some of us get on. It is now dark out.
After some more waiting we hear some encouraging sounds. It sounds like the bus engine is trying to turn over when the ignition is fired. Then the sound of a successful start. We have a working engine again. I think a trucker who stopped figured out a way to get us going again. Thank goodness. I know you must be thinking great Marko is going to make it home before his food runs out.
Uh-oh. What is that sound? Umm, the engine doesn’t sound so good. It has only been about a half hour since we restarted. But we are still driving. Hmm, we are pulling into a gas station. Maybe a scheduled washroom break before we go too far. The engine dies. That’s why we pulled in. A second break down. I shouldn’t have nibbled on my energy bar. But damn it tasted so good. It is going to get made for the soldiers. But first, lets get home. And with this second breakdown, I think getting another bus is the way they are going to choose to solve this issue. It was mentioned at the first breakdown. And you thought I was going to have a day off from this kind of stuff. HAA!!
A little while later another bus arrives. We can make it home. After a little while of driving we pull into a gas station. This is likely the washroom stop I thought we were having at breakdown number two. I didn’t need ‘to go’, but I decided to go in anyway. Pretty nice place. Lots of stuff to buy if you wanted. Lots of food. I was undecided. Another person in my group decided to get one of the hot dogs. Ugh, roller dogs. I decided on some ice cream. I figured with the number of ladies in line for just one restroom I had time. Nope. The process took longer than anticipated. Another person from our group came to retrieve the both of us. They were waiting for us in order to get back on the road. Ask me how I felt walking back on the bus with my ice cream cone (and having to go all the way to the back row). At this point, I don’t give a flying fuck. Watch me eat it as I pass you by. Wanna lick?
I try to sleep on the remainder of the ride to Lviv. No luck. I doze in and out a few times, but I am not getting any sleep. We make it back to the drop off point after 1 am. The bus had to alter the route to try and let people off at several drop off points. After a cab ride home I remember that I had to feed my pet. The sourdough culture I had begun just a few days before. After I do that discard and feeding it is after 2 am. Almost 24 hours since I woke up.
No sleeping in. Awake a few hours later. After a long time of tossing and turning it is 7 am. Guess I will make it to the gym for 10 am today. No rest for the wicked. What a day. Where are we going next?
Whether you’re writing of a place I’m familiar with or not, your writing always evocatively brings me back to Ukraine Marko. Lovely tale and images. I am hoping to be back at end October, but am currently on crutches from a mishap that belongs in Markoworld (now THAT’S a theme park I’d visit 😆). So hopefully see you then, but look forward to more vicarious visits from your posts in the meantime.